Bullion Stitch Tutorial

Flower made with the bullion stitch

đź–¤ This step-by-step bullion stitch tutorial will show you how to create this beautiful flower embroidery stitch, adding rich texture and dimension to your embroidery projects. The bullion stitch is a wrapped stitch that forms a raised, rope-like effect, making it perfect for adding intricate details. While it may look tricky at first, with a little practice, you’ll master it in no time!

At first glance, the bullion stitch may seem like a straight stitch with extra volume—some even say it resembles a tiny worm! But don’t let that intimidate you. This versatile stitch can be used to create stunning embroidered elements, from delicate floral designs to textured fills inside shapes. Whether you want to embroider wheat grains, tiny buds, textured hair, or intricate flower embroidery stitches, the bullion stitch allows for endless creative possibilities.

That being said, the bullion stitch is not a beginner-friendly stitch. Similar to the popcorn lazy daisy stitch, it requires both hands, careful coordination, and a bit of patience. If you’re just starting out, it’s best to begin with simpler stitches before tackling this intermediate-level technique. However, once you get the hang of it, you’ll love the dimension and texture it brings to your embroidery work.

And if photos alone don’t quite cut it, don’t worry! Sometimes, watching the process makes all the difference. At the end of this embroidery stitch tutorial, you’ll find a helpful video demonstrating exactly how to embroider the bullion stitch step by step.

Let’s dive into this bullion stitch tutorial and start stitching!

Table of Contents

Tips

  • The bullion stitch works best when using high quality threads such as DMC threads. They tend to be smoother and firmer which makes it easier to pull through your wraps.
  • Because you’ll be wrapping your thread around your needle and pulling it through the wraps, you may want to use a needle with an eye that isn’t too bulbous. Otherwise things will get a little feisty.

I use my regular DMC embroidery needles to make the bullion stitch because the eyes aren’t so wide that they create major issues, and I’ve learned not to wrap my thread too tightly. But if you have any trouble with it use a Milliners (straw) needle which is streamlined and will help your needle pass through easily.

The bullion stitch can be created from any direction, and for this embroidery stitch tutorial I’ll make one going up & down.

  • Begin by coming up to the top of the fabric from the bottom and returning to the back a stitch length away at the top.
  • Don’t pull the thread all the way through. It needs to be pretty loose on top to continue the rest of the steps.

Steps

  • Push your needle back up to the top, at or very near the point where you started, and stop halfway.
very loose stitch with the needle coming back up at the bottom

  • Hold your needle in place from below the fabric with one hand.
  • With the other hand, pick up the end of the thread that’s closest to your needle, and carefully wrap it several times around your needle. It doesn’t matter which direction you go.
  • Remember, your needle needs to pass through your wrapped thread so don’t wrap it too tightly.
  • Push the wrapped thread down along your needle and set it gently against your fabric to see if the wraps reach the thread at the top. Add more wraps if you need to.
thread wrapped around needle

TIP:

If you add more wraps your stitch will end up with a curve. If that’s what you’re going for, add more wraps to create a bigger curve.

  • Here is where it can get a little tricky, and this may require some practice…
  • Pinch your wrapped thread and carefully pull your needle through.
wrapped thread pinched between two finger as thread is being pulled through.

  • As you pull your needle and thread up with one hand, use your other hand to gently hold the stitch in place to prevent it from unraveling. If the wraps start to loosen or shift, use your fingernails to carefully guide them back into position.
  • Continue pulling the thread through until your bullion stitch sits snugly against the fabric. Be patient—slow and steady movements will help maintain the stitch’s shape and tension.
  • If any wraps fall out of place, don’t worry! Simply use your needle to nudge them back into alignment for a smooth, even finish.

To finish your embroidery stitch, just return to the back of your fabric.

needle entering the back of the bullion stitch at the top.

The first few bullion stitches I made were a bit of a disaster, so if that’s the case for you, don’t feel bad! It’s a tricky embroidery stitch, but I promise it’s worth learning. Once you get the technique down, you’ll find it both fun and incredibly satisfying to stitch.

Try creating a group of French knots, then add bullion stitches around them to form a beautiful flower embroidery stitch—this technique makes a lovely rose or floral accent in your designs. You can also experiment by varying the number of wraps to create different textures and effects. The more you practice, the more creative possibilities you’ll discover!

Flower made with the bullion stitch

The bullion stitch may not be the easiest embroidery stitch to learn, but with a little patience and practice, you’ll quickly get the hang of it. If your first few stitches don’t turn out quite right, don’t worry—that’s completely normal! This flower embroidery stitch requires precise wrapping and tension control, but once you master it, the results are stunning. Whether you use it for tiny floral details, textured fills, or decorative accents, this stitch adds a unique touch to your embroidery projects.

If you’re struggling to get it just right, take a deep breath and try again. Sometimes, adjusting the number of wraps or switching to a milliner’s needle can make all the difference. And if you prefer learning visually, be sure to watch my bullion stitch tutorial video below! Seeing each step in action can help you better understand the technique and build confidence in your stitching.

Experiment with different placements and combinations to create beautiful textures in your embroidery work. Whether you’re adding delicate details or bold design elements, this versatile embroidery stitch tutorial opens up a world of creative possibilities. Happy stitching!

Bullion Stitch Video

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